Many consider Iran to be a dangerous travel destination. The Iranians are probably one of the most hospitable peoples of the world. A trip through the living room of the Islamic Republic.
Hossein is doing so, as he had to pass, and then he laughs out loud. The Tehran taxi driver shows an oversized Black-and-White poster of the Iran’s Supreme leader Ali Khamenei’s threat down on us watching. A few meters behind it rests on its predecessor in a gigantic Mausoleum, with Golden domes and towers. “No Casinos, no disco, no alcohol – not good,” says Hossein in broken English. The blame for this, he gives the dead under the Golden domes, Ruhollah Khomeini, that the clergy, who, 40 years ago, the Islamic Revolution in Iran and the country then in a state of God transformed.
Also still keeping a watchful eye: the revolutionary leader Ruhollah Khomeini
Since then, the country has especially in the West a bad reputation. It shows not only in the media coverage, but also to the reactions of family, friends and Acquaintances, if you are told that you are traveling in Iran. An incredulous “What are you doing here?” or an accusation, full of “Are you crazy? That’s dangerous!” remains and does not. My girlfriend Anna and I want to know, want to look behind the facades of the former Persia. Already before the journey we take, therefore, on the platform of “Couchsurfing” contact to many Iranians, the offer us to stay a few nights with them – although “Couchsurfing” is banned in Iran.
Just get out of Tehran
Iran’s capital, Tehran is one thing above all: exhausting. The picturesquely at the foot of the Alborz mountain, the metropolis of nearly nine million inhabitants is bursting at the seams; the roads are clogged, the air is dirty, the way far.
In the Tehran Metro ride and wait for women and men separately
After two days, we have enough and drive in the direction of the South. Around 200 kilometers South of Tehran, Kashan, a beautiful old city, located on the edge of the Central Iranian desert. In contrast to the capital’s almost all women here wear the long black Chador, a cloak that leaves only the face free. Our hostess Bita carries him as she opens the door, puts him immediately, as soon as we are in the house.
“The smaller cities in Iran are still very conservative and religious,” she explains. “Here it is actually impossible to only go with a headscarf on the street.” For the first Time, we realize how torn apart this country is. In Iran, worlds lie between the Old and young, Conservative and liberal, says Bita – and has little hope for the future: “Even if the Regime will fall eventually, I don’t know how this country could be held together.” Like so many Iranians, you remember, to leave the country.
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Iran: A tour in picturesFriendly Small Town: Kashan
Not only the city itself, with its traditional houses, mosques, and bazaars a distinctive charm. Also the surroundings of Kashan has a lot to offer. Especially the salt lake and the huge sand dunes in the nearby Maranjab desert are definitely worth a visit. Tip: get up Early to experience the sunrise in Maranjab.
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Iran: A tour in picturesThere is art everywhere: Isfahan
Art in Iran is omnipresent. The love of the Iranians to Detail is not to be overlooked, such as on the inner wall of the dome of the Sheikh Lotfollah mosque in Isfahan. But even outside of the houses of God can be found everywhere, colors, patterns, wall paintings and Street art.
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Iran: A tour in picturesThe “red” village of Abyaneh
Only around 300 inhabitants, the little village between Kashan and Isfahan counts. Nevertheless, Abyaneh is known to almost everyone in Iran. The place with the red-brown clay houses, has been able to preserve its own culture and language over 2000 years and is considered by many Iranians, therefore, as a mirror of their history. Since 2007, Abyaneh is on the suggestion list for the UNESCO world heritage site.
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Iran: A tour in picturesPretty hot: the desert of Lut
So many imagine, the surface of the planet Mars. The Dasht-e Lut, also Kalut called, is a place without life. 70.7 °C was measured here by NASA in 2005, the hottest ground temperature on the earth. Anyone who travels in the East of Iran, must visit the Lut on every case – even if it could be one or the other quickly to hot.
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Iran: A tour in picturesOasis in the desert: Yazd
In an oasis between the two biggest deserts of Iran, Yazd, one of the most beautiful cities of the country. Famous this former caravan-nodes point for its antique buildings which is preserved until today is. In the evening you can enjoy the views of the enlightened, a UNESCO world heritage city from the roofs of the traditional teahouses.
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Iran: A tour in picturesDazzling Prospects: Golestan
Get out of the city, purely in the nature: In the extreme North-East of Iran, away from the usual tourist routes, is the Golestan. An absolute Must is the visit to the tomb of Khaled Nabi, a predecessor of Mohammed. From here one overlooks a seemingly endless sea of hills, extending in all directions to the horizon.
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Iran: A tour in picturesFavorite city in the Iranians: Shiraz
If you ask the Iranians, what is your favorite city, answers many of the “Shiraz”. In fact, Shiraz has to offer, next to the tomb of the famous Iranian poet Hafez’s many other attractions. An absolute eye-catcher is the Nasir-ol-Molk mosque. In the morning the light falls through the colored Windows and the prayer space a magical atmosphere.
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Iran: A tour in picturesTestimony of ancient Persia: Persepolis
To the North of Shiraz, the ancient Palace city of Persepolis is located. It is a testimony of the former Persian Empire, which stretched from North Africa to India. 330 BC the city was destroyed by Alexander the Great in part. The desert sand preserved the Remains of over 2000 years. Today, Persepolis is a UNESCO world heritage site.
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Iran: A tour in picturesMore Important Retreat: Iran’s Gardens
The myriad gardens in Iran are not only beautiful, they serve many Iranians as a retreat. Largely unobserved by the watchful eyes of the police and the parents can meet here are young unmarried couples and a bit of togetherness to enjoy. One of the most beautiful gardens in the Prince’s garden (picture) in Mahan near Kerman in Eastern Iran.
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Iran: A tour in picturesChampion of the world of hospitality
How incredibly friendly and helpful, the Iranians are, like for many Western visitors almost disconcerting. Everywhere you will be invited to dinner or to tea, it will be openly and warmly talked and laughed, loved and traditional Persian food – how here with our hosts and their friends in Mashhad.
“Welcome to Iran”
Although Bita mothering all around you is only a few years older than we are – and we feel very comfortable with her, we must continue to Isfahan. To right it is called the old trade city “half the world”. Here there is everything, what you dare to dream. Around the gigantic Imam square, after all, one of the largest squares in the world, extends a seemingly endless network of bazaars, where you get pretty much everything.
Carriages on the Imam square of Isfahan
As everywhere in Iran, we are courted like kings. Again and again, the people on the street greet us, as we were the first tourist they have ever seen. “Welcome to Iran” as opposed to it sounds to us countless times. We get ourselves in front of euphoria.
In a Museum, Ali talks to us. The young man, in his early thirties, comes from Shiraz, the city is not far from Isfahan. There we arrange to meet with him the next day. Proudly he shows us his home town and takes us to the impressive historical sites of ancient Persia, Persepolis and necropolis. For hours we ask questions of each other, talking about Germany and Iran.
Iran’s Supreme leader Khamenei not to call Ali by name, but speaks of the “crazy Ayatollah”. “Every day, he and his followers preach about how evil the West is. But send their children to Western universities and if you are sick, let the West treat it, not here.” Especially Ali despised the revolutionary guards, who call the Iranian “Sepah”. “They’re like the Mafia in Italy,” he says. “The master of everything: Oil, construction, banks, everything. You are getting richer, while millions of Iranians fall into poverty,” he complains. Whether he has ever thought about emigrating, we ask. “Of course, if my family would not, I would be long gone,” says Ali. “But I cannot and will not leave you here.”
A swing of the hips and Sing: Dancing in the Maharloo lake
We keep on Maharloo lake, a pink salt lake near Shiraz. Ali turns up the music in his old Peugeot and we try to traditional südiranischem dance. Then we drive for hours through the beautiful barren and rugged desert landscapes in the direction of the East, until we finally reach Kerman. Shortly after, it means: time to say goodbye. We are on the verge of tears. But our next hosts are already in the open door and wait dinner on us.
Trip in the hottest desert in the world
Fatemeh and Mohammad are an odd Couple. He is reserved, almost shy, she outgoing. Fatemeh takes us into the surroundings of your home town, in the small town of Mahan. Here’s the probably most beautiful garden in the whole of Iran, the Prince garden is located. Of the historic house, in the in the 19th century. Century, resided a Qadjar Prince, down through the melting water of the nearby mountains in beautifully landscaped steps up to the entrance gate – an oasis in the middle of the desert. Despite the refreshing environment, we groan under the heat. Especially Anna suffers under the head scarf and long clothes.
With our couch hosts Mohammad and Fatemeh in the hottest desert in the world
Still hot it is removed two hours by car from Kerman in the Dasht-e Lut, the hottest desert in the world. In 2005, it has incredible 70,7 °C soil temperature were measured! Crossing the upstream chain of mountains, it is a blow incredibly hot. Drought as far as the eye can see. The giant sand stone Formations from the lifeless soil surface. We feel like being on another planet. Unfortunately, we are not able to admire this unique natural wonder for too long – the heat will be with every Minute of unbearable.
Iran, too, is changing
Since 2017, a UNESCO world heritage site: the city of Yazd
After a stop in the ancient desert city of Yazd is the night train more to Mashhad, the holiest city of Iran and the birthplace of the President of the revolutionary leader Ali Khamenei. About 20 million people make the pilgrimage here every year. You pray at the Shrine of Imam Ali Reza, a descendant of Muhammad, the Shiites especially sacred. We feel foreign to us. For the first Time we encounter the infamous moral guardians, the Anna-friendly, but definitely ask your head scarf to the hairline preferable.
After the visit of the actually very impressive Shrine, we want to move on. But to stay and our hosts Fatemeh and Meysam persuade us. We will visit the 3000-year-old mountain village of Kang, and go out in the evening without alcohol be understood (even if many Iranians drink nevertheless, regularly, and us wine is offered).
Prayer room in the mountain village of Kang
As it is, in such a religious and conservative city to grow up, we want to know from Fatemeh. “Annoying is that concerts are banned,” she says. “I always have to drive for hours to the next town, if I want to see my favorite singer”. However, change a lot, like everywhere in the country, says the young woman: “Today we have the Internet, chat on social media. And even if the government blocks certain pages, we come across detours still in it.”
Between the mountains and the aircraft carriers
The last days of our trip we want to spend as much of the city and the desert, in the countryside. Only few tourists get lost in Iran’s North-Eastern province of Golestan. She is only about eight hours ‘ drive from Tehran in Iran – Iranian relations almost around the corner. We’ll be at Hossein and Fereshteh. Again, we feel from the first Moment, more than comfortable. The two recommend us to visit the tomb of Khalid Nabi, on the border to Turkmenistan. What may initially sound like a sad visit to the Cemetery is, rather, a view of an infinitely wide landscape of green and gray hills, the takes a simple language.
Tomb with a view: Khalid Nabi in Golestan
But Iran is a country where you just can’t enjoy the beauty of the nature. The economic situation of Iranians is getting worse from day to day, because of the re-imposed sanctions of the USA. While we were Hiking in Golestans mountains, moved to the US President’s aircraft carriers and bombers in the Region; Iran, for its part, gets part way out of the nuclear deal; everything speaks of the danger of war. The harder the parting of Hossein and Fereshteh falls.
As we sit, a few days later, back on the plane in the direction of Germany, we are relieved nevertheless. Especially Anna, who must sit out after three weeks, finally her headscarf. But we are sure: We will come back again. Because even though Iran seems at first glance to be so strange and closed, it is a wonderful country to visit, before you have to have no fear. Rather, it is a country where one can also conclude, as a traveler, real friendships.