South Africa’s third-largest city, is increasingly popular with tourists, also because she strips off her sleazy Image. But the changes reach those that need it? Sertan Sanderson reported from Durban.
Durban takes your breath away, literally. In the South African city on the Indian ocean, most of the time there is an average humidity of 80 percent. Who lands at the King Shaka International Airport in Durban, is first received by a wall of heat and humidity.
About 20 percent of the population of Durbans are of Indian descent, the shows of the city
The arrival by plane is becoming more and more popular. In recent years, new direct international connections to Durban are due to the large demand.
The city of 3.5 million people was declared in 2015 to one of the “New7Wonders Cities” of the world. After that, a city of renewal, the African metropolis brought the biggest boost since the 2010 FIFA world Cup in South Africa began.
Urban renewal with flaws
In spite of the generous cash injections in recent years, the city of Durban does not seem with their unique Art Deco buildings and multi-lane avenues to benefit from the Boom. The old town is characterized by typical symptoms of poverty: Everywhere, Strangers are approached by Locals, in the hope to get some money. Begging and theft are widespread. The tourists are advised to be vigilant, if you are staying in this part of the city.
Street in Glenwood
However, there is much to discover: Among the many markets in Durban’s Victoria Street Market stands out particularly. Of woven Zulu baskets Makoti-dresses up to the fragrant spices – there’s always a reason to Act and Negotiate.
Hype and Hipster
Outside the city centre of Durban, the urban change is visible, for example in the districts of Glenwood and Florida. Here Locals and tourists can find a variety of Pubs, Bars, Restaurants and cafes. Especially Glenwood stands out: Here, the digital nomads of the Durban meeting, MacBooks, and Flip Flops (in South Africa lovingly Slip Slops) seem to be part of an informal dress code. Urban renewal is synonymous with gentrification, a decade ago, yet Glenwood at best was a sleeping city.
Station Drive – one of the trendy area of Durban
While the regional tourism office emphasized that there is also a branch of the world-famous, Seattle-based coffee chain, as if the additional visitors would be attracted to – not the district Station Drive, only good coffee but also less Hipster.
Authenticity is the special feature of this district, says Magdalene Reddy, head of the local African Art Centre: “We are about to present something different than the usual offerings for tourists,“ she explains.
In a former warehouse local artists can display and sell their works. Reddy added that the warehouse was actually no desire to address: “We couldn’t afford our old location, so we moved here. But I think that many visitors like the warehouse.”
Chance for founder
The expert does not ask for Edward Papaphotis to Gelato, ice cream
On the other side of the street Edward Papaphotis sells ice cream with ingredients of pineapple licorice to vegan creations. Papaphotis constantly looking for new flavors. He stressed that Durban is a great location to start a business in South Africa “In Cape town and Johannesburg I had with my business idea a lot more overhead and competition. I’m happy here, Durban is cool.”
For the spirit of optimism in Durban, the local initiatives are as important as the investment of the government.
In fact, the largest part of public expenditure is for the renewal of Durban, where the tourists are. The famous kilometre-long beach promenade – in front of a desolate vermüllter site has been cleaned and refreshed. At the southern end, visitors can learn in the uShaka Marine World, the fifth largest Aquarium in the world, more about the world of the Indian ocean.
Promenade of the contradictions
Police station with a story: during the Apartheid era, the building served as a toilet, only for White
Right next door is a business joins the other, each guarded by security forces. They ensure that tourists are not harassed by persistent beggars.
The small police station in a former public toilet in North Beach, signalled to the visitors that Durban has shaken off its old Image of a rundown city full of crime. Although there are hardly any signs of drug-related crime in the past, but the contrasts Five-star Hotels amid dire poverty, remain visible.
Zungo is working there, where others spend their holidays, on the beach of Durban
One that tries to benefit from the new tourist boom, Zungo. At their small Stand on the boardwalk, the 69-year-old bangles, necklaces and jewelry made of pearls – produces a Zulu Tradition that goes back centuries. On a good day, she says, earn 400 Rand, about 25 Euro. Sometimes they stayed there, where you build your little Stand. On the question of whether this is safe, she smiles telling.
Of the city’s renewal, especially the Rich benefit. On a good day, the Promenade, reminiscent of the North American Atlantic City – and to the British Blackpool on a bad.
Durban lives of the contrasts, the fact that the city continues to grow and re-invent. Many Locals hope to see a faster pace of change. From the current progress, you can benefit.
More than a leisure activity – local anglers in Durban