Black self-consciousness: photos from the African-American fashion magazine “Ebony”

The magazines “Ebony” and “Jet” have shaped generations of black youths. The Ex-President of the United States, Barack Obama. An exhibition in Berlin shows treasures from the archive of the publisher John H. Johnson.

Barack Obama, the American magazine “Ebony” before and after his election to the presidency of the United States a very personal Interview. In it, he reminded, among other things, the importance of the magazine for his own career: “When I was growing up, were the only black men on television, criminals or Flip Wilson dressed as a character named Geraldine,” he said.

The Johnson Publishing Company since its founding in 1942, an integral part of the history of Afro-America. The publisher, John H. Johnson continued with its magazines “Ebony” and “Jet” the goal is to strengthen the self-esteem of Afro-Americans. About Blacks from “Harlem to Hollywood” should be finally released “positive images” to read on the Website of the “Ebony”.

Moneta Sleet Jr. only Martin Luther King, but fashion is not photographed

“Ebony” was coined by African-American culture

The first issue of “Ebony” appeared in the autumn of 1945, the sister magazine “Jet” to later moved. The two magazines were the first to show African-American Doctors, lawyers, business people and black celebrities – in the Format and in the presentation of a glossy magazine. And at a time when such publications are usually white, blonde men and women. Publisher Johnson was aware of an African-American audience, should participate in the economic boom of the post-war period.

The publishing icon John H. Johnson died in 2005 at the age of 87 years, six decades after the magazine “Ebony” is first published. He remained many Americans in memory of: Johnson’s funeral in Chicago, participated in several civil rights leaders, as well as former US President Bill Clinton.

Of Salto sun backwards? Model in a bathing suit, photographed by Isaac Sutton

Images from the archive of the John H. Johnson-publisher

The exhibition in Berlin’s Martin-Gropius-Bau shows photographs from the archives of the John H. Johnson-publisher. The black US-American conceptual artist Theaster Gates as a guest curator shots of the two photographer Moneta Sleet Jr. and Isaac Sutton.

“With this exhibition I would like to introduce with never-before-seen images from the Johnson Collection, the functioning of Sleet and Sutton. In her photographs she created iconic female moments and also give a small insight into the daily life of the people,” said Gates. “The archives gather beauty and Black Female Power. Now is a good time, it seems to me, in the visual lexicon of the United States to dive, and to show images that are outside of my Community.”

The longtime Ebony photographer Moneta Sleet, who died in 1996, wrote with his photos story – and he kept her in the picture. Sleet occurred mainly in the Wake of Martin Luther King in appearance. From 1955 he was with his camera at his side, and photographed King in 1964, when he accepted the Nobel peace prize and in 1965, when he led the protest March of the civil rights movement from Selma to Montgomery.

Moneta Sleet photographed the fashion of the 1960s

In The Centre: Moneta Sleet Jr. and Isaac Sutton

The funeral of Martin Luther King on 9. April 1968, photographed Sleet. Five days earlier, a sniper had to protect the ball the civil rights leader shot and killed. However, Kings had to use widow, Coretta Scott King, for him.

As you noted, that the press pool that accompanied the funeral of her husband, did not contain a single black photographer, she threatened: If Sleet would not be left in the Church, there would be no admission for the photographer, point.

Sleets photo of Mrs. King and the tears of mass of bloodstained daughter, Bernice appeared in the may 1968 issue of “Ebony”. Thus Sleet won the prestigious Pulitzer prize, which made him the first African-American photographer ever to receive this highest award for news.

Exhibition view of The Black Image Corporation in the Gropius-Bau in Berlin

Browse in the exhibition, welcome

The Martin-Gropius-Bau brings in addition to the photographic work of Sleet, the by Isaac Sutton. A photographer who was just as formative for the work and the presentation of Ebony. Meanwhile, the Johnson publishing company had to file for bankruptcy and is for sale.

Even more important, to see in Berlin, a selection of a total of four million photos again open to the public. In addition to the Original issues of “Ebony” and “Jet” shows the Look of ten large-format prints of Sleet and Sutton, as well as more than 100 additional photos.

If that’s not enough, you can dress up in white gloves and be active on your own. Browse the photo folders stored is expressly prohibited.

The exhibition “The Black Image Corporation,” in the Martin-Gropius-Bau in Berlin until 28. To see July 2019.


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