Fine wines from the tropics? The cultivation speaks to all the rules of the wine. But the dedicated winemakers in Thailand, make the impossible possible. DW’s Julian Tompkin to visit with the winemakers of Khao Yai.
It was fate, because Visooth Lohitnavy. How many young students in Thailand in the 60s, was also sent Lohitnavy abroad. Not like most in the USA or to the Philippines, he landed in Germany. More precisely in Munich and Stuttgart. In his excursions into the countryside Lohitnavy discovered a small, traditional wine-growing region, rich on the Neckar river, the Zaubergäu. And fell in love with the landscape and its fruits and wine. And a thought began to Mature in him: What if he would grow in Thailand, wine, really good?
The elephant in the vineyard
Three hours ‘ drive North-East of Bangkok, the wine region of Khao Yai extends, in the midst of the enchanting landscape of the province of Nakhon Ratchasima. The rain forests and the always green grass landscape are home to exotic animals such as elephants and tigers. The first national Park of Thailand, Khao Yai National Park was created here and is still considered today as the most beautiful.
The wine region of Khao Yai is between 350 and 500 meters above the sea level. Khao Yai is a far cry from the dense Smog and the high humidity in the South of Thailand. Limestone hills to the horizon to your feet rich, red earth, called Terra Rosa. From time to time, one sees a farm house made of stone and vines – I almost feel like in Tuscany.
Wine pioneer, Visooth Lohitnavy, since 1999, he grows wine in Khao Yai
The climate in Thailand is determined by the monsoon, here in the North, however, it is milder than in the Rest of the country. On the hot and humid summer and a relatively “cooler” Winter follows. The temperatures have dropped to 14 degrees, and the nights in January and February can be really cold. For Lohitnavy, the decisive Argument, to dare with the Wine. Because grapes are cold need your flavor to expand. In 1999, he buys an old Corn and Cashew plantation in the Asoke valley and put all his energy and strength in the cultivation of wine. He called the situation “Gran Monte”, which means “Big mountain” in Thai, Khao Yai.
Not for the faint of heart
Today, the 16-acre property line is planted with vines of the great European wines: Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon, Verdelho or Viognier. Lohitnavys daughter Nikki has studied Oenology and monitored the Selection and the Vinification of the Chenin Blanc was harvested in the night. The best harvest time, because it is cooler.
Their wines are award-winning: Nikki Lohitnavy is Thailand’s first and only winemaker
In the afternoon a storm suddenly breaks over us. The tightly scheduled harvest sequence to be scrambled, and it is not clear if the grapes survive the storm unscathed. The grapes are now very sensitive and can burst. A winery in the tropics must have no weak nerve. “The weather is unpredictable,” explains Nikki Lohitnavy, which brings your whole experience. She has learned in Australia and in Europe and South America worked.
“Wine cultivation in the tropics is extremely labor intensive,” she adds. “The power of Thai wines are expensive to produce. In comparison to other wine-growing regions, where the wine-growers tax and/or subsidies to enjoy gains, we are at a disadvantage. But we are convinced of the Potential of the wine. Especially the Kao Yai wine. In the beginning the people did not want to believe that this can work. But your opinion has changed pretty quickly.”
The fit: fine wines as an accompaniment to exotic Thai Food
Model Of Thai-Wine
Thailand leads the “wine Revolution” in the tropics. Also in India, Brazil, China, and Vietnam, the Wine is on the rise. It is a long road and a hard fight. Tropical wines experience no Dormancy like in Europe, you do not have a “winter sleep”. Because only one remains: the whole of the year of the wine will cut back the dense Growth of stem and ensure that only once a year, needs to be harvested.
“The Khao Vai winemakers make the impossible possible”, says to me, Visooth Lohitnavy. From anywhere in the world colleagues now come to learn from the growers in Thailand. Also, winemakers in traditional wine-growing areas are facing due to climate change, more frequent weather phenomena that you Can put to a hard test. The climate is forcing the colleagues in France, Italy and Spain to explore new avenues. The Thai wines are their role model.
A destination for connoisseurs
Of the three major wine-growing areas of Thailand, Khao Yai is the most important. The other two, Pattaya and Hua Hin, located in the South. In Khao Yai is not only top quality wines are produced, here the “Thai Wine Association,” which monitors the quality of the buildings to the wine sits. Also, with regard to the tourism offerings, is Khao Yai leading the way. Wine tastings at farms, guided vineyard tours, spend the night at the winery – the whole tourist package.
Something different than the beach: tourists in a wine tasting of the Monsoon Valley in the South of Thailand
Visooth Lohitnavys “Gran Monte”, has become an Ambassador of Thai wines, both in Thailand and abroad. It is said that because of the “Gran Monte” had already converted many Thais that are more of a beer-drinker to wine. The wine is not traded only in Asia, he is also exported to Europe. Including award-winning vintages like the 2009 Asoke Cabernet Sauvignon, and Syrah winning Gold at the prestigious International Wine Challenge (AWC) in Vienna. It is the largest officially recognized Wine contest in the world.
While most of Thailand, vacationers still come for the beaches, but Khao Yai can’t complain. More and more tourists are discovering the gourmet travel destination. You will appreciate the combination of exotic wine, good food and lush nature.
Only 20 minutes by car from “Gran Monte” leads me to the celebrity chef Somchai Chaivanich in his well-stocked wine cellar. Here, wines from France, USA, Italy, Australia, camps, and there is also a small section of Thai wines. Chaivanich reaches for a bottle. “This is the beginning of something Big,” he says. “Thai wine can compete with the great wine regions of the world.”
Wine-growing in the Khao Yai national Park, just three hours from Bangkok