Journey
Banja – the Russian way of Sauna
The Winter in Moscow is cold. Very cold. DW-reporter Kerstin Palzer has turned into a real Russian Sauna, Banja, warmed up. Three hours for a glimpse of the Russian soul, at over 100 degrees.
Anyone who believes he is a proven Sauna-goers, you should definitely a Russian Banya a try. 100 degrees and above, this is a decent hot, from the Russian point of view, everything else is a child’s Birthday party. Added to the constant infusions; by the humidity, everything appears to be again much hotter. The Russians smile only mild about the Finns with their “hot huts”.
Basic rules for a Banya visit
In a Banja wraps the best in a large cotton or linen cloth, and sets one of these legendary Banja-hats on. This hat is made of felt, looks ridiculous, but uses a lot, because it protects the head from the heat. Except for the cloth that you wear in the Banja nothing. Swimsuits have when you sweat, nothing to look for, so the very clear Orders of the Banja experts. And it applies to gender segregation. There is a women’s Banya and a men-Banja.
Note, by the way, if in Russia the place to sweat “SAUNA”. This is often an erotically oriented establishment and has the classic (and completely awful!) Banja nothing to do.
It heats up the Banjabesuchern a – Dampfmeisterin Olga
In each Banja, there are a Dampfmeister or in the women’s Banya, of course, a Dampfmeisterin. Our called Olga and rings vigorously to a bell in the porch of the Banya, as soon as the Schwitzraum prepared and ready. Then all of women quickly in the washing area, showers short and wait for it – neatly lined up in front of the door to the Schwitzraum.
Banjas are traditionally two-storey building of the oven is below. All the Russians in the upper area. This is already an unusual sight when a whole group of bare women felt hats deep in the forehead draws. All are up to the tip of the nose to protect from the heat in the sheet is wrapped. Just all have loud chatter, now they are silent, sitting arise on the wooden benches and wait for the heat. The great heat. And the comes. Because Olga heats meanwhile the oven.
Heat for the health and calmness for the soul
Next to me hangs a Thermometer. 117 degrees, it shows. When I panic, calms me down a Mitschwitzerin. The Thermometer was broken and it was “only” 90 degrees. Cuddly, so to speak. As Olga with a large towel, the heat swirled and hot steam to spread, to rain down doubt. It is incredibly hot. But I I’m not Russian and Banja-course not used. Tamara, the woman next to me, goes every week in the Banja. “Inhale the hot air through the mouth,” she says. “So you get no cough now in the Winter.”
There is a veritable Silence. Than I of my neighbor whisper a question to her wants, I will of the Dampfmeisterin Olga rightly pointed “Quiet! In the Banja it is quiet. So that the soul can find peace.”
The plunge pool – a test of courage for DW-reporter Kerstin Palzer
After a few minutes in Schwitzraum it goes under the shower and then – anyone who dares – in the plunge pool. This has supposedly 4 degrees. I would dare to say it. My feeling when Dipping is that the water is actually freezing would have and I the same.
Cool Banjas in Moscow
The most famous Banya of Moscow, the Sanduny in Moscow city centre, in the Neglinnaya uliza 14. This Banya was already in 1808 opened and it is traditionally also a place for social gatherings. In the area for the men, there are also a spectacular swimming pool (with the women there is none), a hairdresser, manicure and Massage. Meeting businessmen and politicians. However, the range for women is currently undergoing refurbishment.
My tip would be the Warschawski Banja in southern Moscow center in the Warschawskoe highway 34, just 500 metres from the metro station Nagatinskaya station. There is the entrance fee for three hours for about 20 euros.
Sweating and Chatting
To almost everyone Banja also has a Restaurant. This is where the news channels of Russian TV. Here you sit in a Bathrobe, with wet hair and reddened skin, and discuss the really important things of life: the Crimea, the EU sanctions and the school grades of the children. The normal life. Nudity creates proximity and the shared sweat connects people and is always considered Russia to be cultivated.
Between the Banja gears is eaten and drunk, often vodka. I personally haven’t experienced, but I was also always go out for the day. As you drink more tea, eat a Sandwich or traditional Russian dishes such as Blinis (Pancakes) with caviar or borscht (beetroot stew).
Birch branches belong to the basic equipment of each Banja
On my second Banya-speed offers me Tamara, me with a bunch of previously water soaked oak and birch branches abzuklopfen. This is the legendary Russian “Wenik”Ritual. Wenik is so much as a broom. “Without Wenik, it is not a real Banya!” says Tamara encouraging. I agree.
Tamara has noticed that I am foreigner am and you skin me to the branches with a muted energy to the back. The Beat with the Wenik aims to stimulate blood circulation and the skin pores open. That usually happens at the whole body, I get the procedure only on the back and the legs felt. After two minutes, I thank you politely and leave – with remnants of leaves on the skin – the Schwitzraum.
More than a bathing
Banja – you must have seen, misses Kerstin Palzer
A little later, I meet Tamara’s outside in the washing area again. “Come you from Germany?”, she asks me friendly. As I confirm, looks at me very seriously and says: “nevertheless, We must remain friends, the Russians and the Germans. This is very important”.
After about three hours, I leave the Banja. Dampfmeisterin Olga calls me the traditional “S’ logkim parom!”, which literally means “with light steam” means. This greeting after the Banya, everyone knows in Russia. He means that after the Banja somehow elated is that life is better and freer continues.
The daily life in Russia is not easy; Moscow is fascinating, but also loud and hectic. A Banya visit, there is something like a trip to the real Russian life. And sometimes it is between wash bowls and felt hats, blocks of a woman, the one before, with branches knocked off, even the really Important said.